Olympus FL-14 Reviews

Olympus E-P1 vs Olympus E-620: bbrault's Reasons – Buried in the middle of a long discussion thread on DPReview is this gem of a feedback by bbrault on why the E-620 was chosen over the E-P1.

I've reproduced the post below, with minor edits for clarity …

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I was also seriously considering the E-P1 but finally opted for the E-620.

I ordered it last week after a brief hands-on with both E-P1 and E-620.

Here is why:

1. Focusing Speed and Moving Subject Isolation. (Human Size Subjects)

I emphasize human subjects because whenever you bring up DOF control, there is always someone ready to demonstrate great DOF control and subject isolation for very small subjects (flowers, insects, birds, etc…) something very much easier to do than on human size subjects (specially for the 4/3 format).

Actually, have you ever seen a picture of a very large subject (building, large truck, etc…) with blurred background? And the other way around, have you ever seen a picture of an insect without a blurred background?

I like the ability to produce nice (human) portraits with blurred background.

This imposes a challenge on any AF system, especially if the subject is not still and moving around such as kids playing in the backyard. (No I am not talking sports).

Actually the narrower the DOF, the more precise the AF has to be, imposing an even greater challenge to the AF system even for relatively slow moving subjects.

While the E-P1 CAF (contrast detection auto focus) is relatively fast with its native m4/3 lenses, (slower CAF than G1 or GH1 but relatively fast); I found 4 problems: None of the available native m4/3 lenses are fast enough for portraits; CAF is still very slow compared to dedicated PDAF (SLR); E-P1 CAF is even slower with the 4/3 adaptor and most ZD (Zuiko Digital) lenses, specially with the ZD 50mm F2 and finally, there are no fast primes in sight for the m4/3 lens line-up.

2. No EVF and No Articulated Screen

I also like shooting live view whenever possible but only with an articulated screen.

The E-P1 claims almost 180 degree viewing but live view is at its best with an articulated screen, once you tried it you will not want to go back to a fixed view. The E620 provides this.

3. External Flash

I do quite a bit of shooting indoors and almost always with a bounce flash, never direct. (I hate direct flash except for outdoor mild fill-in).

Forget about the cute little E-P1 flash (Olympus FL-14) for bounce, it does not swivel and even if it could, it does not have the power.

Even the FL-36R has border line amount of power for bouncing.

In reality, the E-P1 has very little appeal except for its size.

Mind you its size is a major appeal and in that respect it is an exceptional camera.

Once you start mounting decent 4/3 glass and a FL-36R, you might wish you had the E620 body to hold it together.

Hope this helps.

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Read more on Olympus E-P1 vs Olympus E-620.

Olympus FL-14 Flash – How Useful on the E-P1? – Peter K. Burian:

Because of the small size of the E-P1, M. Zuiko lenses and the FL-14 flash, the Micro Four Thirds system is ideal for taking photos during events and family outings when you don’t want to carry a large/heavy camera bag. It’s great for snap shooting with Intelligent Auto mode but equally suitable for serious photography using any of the many creative features and overrides.

Peter has also provided a sample photo of "Zoltan the Adequate" where the FL-14 was as a fill flash. Peter says:

While the E-P1 accepts the full-size Olympus flash units, the FL-14 is much more compact and adequately powerful for use with the short focal length lenses. For most testing, I used it outdoors to provide fill-lighting under harsh illumination or in deeply shaded locations.